Sun Requirements:

Forsythia do their best in full sun but will still tolerate partial sun.

Water Requirement

This plant likes average moisture but can be drought tolerance once established.

It is best to water heavier and less frequently than less water and more often. For the first full season, you will need to keep up with watering. In the second and third year, you may need to provide supplemented water if there is a drought but they shouldn't need much more help.

Blooms

Forsythia bloom in early spring with a vibrant yellow, gold flower. You see many varieties blooming right now (early-mid April) but after the plant blooms, it will product medium green foliage. Depending on the variety, some have a prominent vein.

Other Facts

• All part of the Oleaceae family

• Originate from East Asia

• Deer resistant

• Salt Tolerant

• Walnut Toxicity Resistant

• Tolerant of many soil types including heavy clay soil

• Great as a border plant

• Prune the shrub after flowering to keep its form.

• For more Landscape information, check out the following podcasts and blogs

  • Landscape Plants & Design Pt.1 Podcast

  • Landscape Plants & Design Pt.2 Podcast & Blog

Instagram Q&A

I always ask followers if they had any specific questions, opinions or hot-takes I can address in this podcast and blog. Here are what people told me and and my answers for this topic:

"When do these bloom in the Midwest? Do they bloom different elsewhere?"

Most varieties will bloom early to mid spring. Based on weather, they could bloom slightly earlier or later but you can always count on them in early spring

Varieties:

• Forsythia ovata- Korean Forsythia

• Forsythia x intermedia- this is a hybrid between weeping forsythia (Forsythia supensa) and greenstem forsythia (Forsythia viridissima)

• Many of the breeding programs are found in Canada. Some other varieties you may see are Sunrise, Lynnwood Gold, Show Off, Citrus Swizzle, Gold Cluster, Bronxensis, Fiesta, Magical Gold, Tetragold, etc.

• New Hampshire Gold

  • Forsythia x intermedia

  • 4-6' tall and wide

  • Hardiness zone 5-8

• Northern Gold Forsythia

  • Mix of Forsythia x intermedia and Forsythia ovata

  • 6-8' tall, 5-7' wide

  • Hardiness Zone 3-8

• Gold Tide Forsythia

  • Forsythia x intermedia 'Courtasol'

  • 2-3' tall, 3-4' wide

  • Hardiness zone 4-8

• Kumson Forsythia

  • Forsythia viridissima koreana

  • 4-6' tall, 6-8' wide

  • Hardiness zone 4-8

  • The leaves have a unique silver vein

• Meadowlark Forsythia

  • 8-10' tall and wide

  • Hardiness zone 4-8

• Show Off® Sugar Baby® Forsythia

  • Forsythia x 'NIMBUS'

  • 18"-2.5' tall, 2'-3' wide

  • Hardiness zone 5-8

WANT TO LISTEN?

Go to Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Stitcher, Google Podcasts, and more! Search for Houseplant Homebody to hear this episode and MANY more! You can also listen directly on my website under the Podcast page!

DON'T FORGET TO FOLLOW!

Stay connected on Instagram, Facebook, and Pinterest @houseplanthomebodyllc.

SAVE, COMMENT, LIKE, FOLLOW, SUBSCRIBE, and SHARE.

All your engagement on my podcasts, blogs, and social media posts help other plant lovers find me too!

Always written with extreme plant passion!

Love, Holly (Owner & Creator of Houseplant Homebody LLC)

I am ALWAYS on team "Shop Local" but if you plant shops don't have Kalanchoe, check out Mountain Crest Gardens! Just type in Kalanchoe in their search bar to see what they have!

TELL ME IN THE COMMENTS what you think of first!

Botanical Name: Kalanchoe

Common Names: Kalanchoe, Chandelier Plant, Devils Backbone, Mother-In-Law-Plant, Mother of Millions, Mother of Thousands

There are TONS of varieties and hybrids of Kalanchoe but here are some just to name a few:

• Kalanchoe blossfeldiana- this is the most commonly known for it's blooms

• Kalanchoe laetivirens- AKA Mother of Thousands

• Kalanchoe delagoensis- AKA Mother of Millions

• Kalanachoe tomentosa- popular cultivar include Panda Plant, Chocolate Solider, & Teddy Bear.

• Kalanchoe luciae- AKA Paddle Plant

• Kalanchoe millotii

• Kalanchoe fedtschenkoi- popular cultivar is called Lavender Scallops

• Kalanchoe orgyalis- popular cultivar is called Copper Spoons

• Kalanchoe beharensis- popular cultivar is called Elephant Ears

• Kalanchoe pumila

• Kalanchoe humilis

• Kalanchoe marmorata

• Kalanchoe bracteata

• Kalanchoe marnieriana

Sun Requirements:

Kalanchoe thrives in bright light but can still does well in bright, indirect light. Place these in as much light as possible to get the best results!

If you need any guidance to understanding light, or are in need of a grow light to help increase your light, check out the links!

Water Requirement

These require very little with watering and need to dry in between watering.

Extra humidity is not necessary, but they can tolerate low humidity.

Fertilizer

As I always say, there are LOTS of ways to fertilize plants. I currently use Fox Farm's Grow Big Liquid Fertilizer or  Fox Farm's Big Bloom Liquid Fertilizer or flowering plants. I fertilize about every 2 weeks when I water my plants, starting around the end of February through October. I only fertilize once or twice in winter because the plant isn't as active!

For Kalanchoe specifically, I would fertilizer with either one of the fertilizers listed above depending on the goal for my Kalanchoe. Since it is a succulent, I would use a little bit less fertilizer and I wouldn't fertilize as much as I normally would.

There are MANY ways to fertilize and it is completely up to you! There are tons of products out there you can try but an overall rule of thumb for houseplants is that it is best to under-fertilize, rather than over-fertilize. Always use the recommended amount, or less, when applying your fertilizer to houseplants.

Propagation

Kalanchoe can be propagated with a leaf cutting or stem cutting just like most succulents! After cutting your leaf of stem, allow them to dry out for a few days before placing in soil. This helps prevent the new cuttings from rotting. Place your cuttings in bright or bright indirect light and keep the soil at medium moisture to help

After a few months, you should have a larger root system to be treated as a brand be Kalanchoe plant!

Flowering Varieties

Many people will buy or receive Kalanchoe blossfeldiana and once it finishes blooming, they will throw it away. If you want to try to hold onto this plant, you can try to get it to rebloom again! Kalanchoe just needs time to go dormant, similar to what Holiday Cactus and Poinsettia need.

• In mid November, place this plant in about 14-15 hours of complete darkness.

  • One easy way to guarantee you are providing the darkness is moving it to your basement with a grow light on a timer for 9-10 hours.

• Placing it in your basement also helps keep the temps down around 60 degrees F.

• You will also reduce watering to about every 3-4 weeks

• Do not fertilize during this time

• Once you go back to normal lighting, watering and fertilizing in spring it should bloom!

This may not work for you the first time and that's okay! These plants are use to having controlled environments in greenhouses so your home is an adjustment. Some people are able to produce blooms without doing anything different than they normally would during the main growing season!

Other Facts

• All part of the Crassulaceae family AKA the Stonecrop Family.

• Native to parts of Madagascar and tropical Africa.

• Common issues that could occur are root rot or powdery mildew. As long as you allow the plant to dry out in-between watering, this should help prevent both of these issues.

• Planting your Kalanchoe in well-draining soil is best and can help prevent root rot.

• In Feng Shui, the Kalanchoe is said to bring positive energy to your home.

• They are toxic to pets. If you are interested in learning about more pet friendly plants, check out Podcast Ep#31 for more info or the corresponding blog post!

Instagram Q&A

I always ask followers if they had any specific questions, opinions or hot-takes I can address in this podcast and blog. Here are what people told me and and my answers for this topic:

"Pretty when blooming but I kill it every time. Succulents and I are not friends."

• I am right there with ya! Knowing what I know now, the care isn't too complicated so maybe think about the sunlight in the non-growing season? Or maybe it could be a watering issue? OR if you would rather not, try it again, that's cool too!

WANT TO LISTEN?

Go to Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Stitcher, Google Podcasts, and more! Search for Houseplant Homebody to hear this episode and MANY more! You can also listen directly on my website under the Podcast page!

DON'T FORGET TO FOLLOW!

Stay connected on Instagram, Facebook, and Pinterest @houseplanthomebodyllc.

SAVE, COMMENT, LIKE, FOLLOW, SUBSCRIBE, and SHARE.

All your engagement on my podcasts, blogs, and social media posts help other plant lovers find me too!

Always written with extreme plant passion!

Love, Holly (Owner & Creator of Houseplant Homebody LLC)

I am ALWAYS on team "Shop Local" but if you plant shops don't have Kalanchoe, check out Mountain Crest Gardens! Just type in Kalanchoe in their search bar to see what they have!

In this blog in episode I am only diving into bulb types that are spring blooming that do best in COOL climates. I know there are other types out there but these are the most commonly found types.

Bulb Types | Spring Blooming, Cooler Climates

Crocus

• Hardiness zone around 3-8 (fall planting).

• Plant these in fall at around 2-3" deep and space each bulb by 3-4".

• Most Crocus are purple, blue, yellow, white or a mixture.

• Sizing is typically very short, no more that 6" tall.

• Bloom time is usually early spring.

• Prefers to be in full sun or partial sun.

• Perfect for pollinator gardens and cut flower arrangements.

Squill or Scilla

• Hardiness zone 3-9 (fall planting).

• Plant in fall at 2-3" deep and space each bulb by 2-4".

• Mature size and bloom color depends on variety.

• Bloom time is usually early- mid spring.

• Can tolerate all sun requirements.

• Perfect for mass planting.

Tulip

• Hardiness zone around 3-7 (fall planting).

• Plant these in fall at around 6-8" deep and space each bulb by 4-6".

• Mature size depends on variety but typically stays between 16-22" tall.

• You can find an Tulips in almost any color and different petal textures as well.

• Bloom time is usually early-late spring.

• Prefers to be in full sun or partial sun.

• Perfect for cut flower arrangements.

Daffodil

• Hardiness zone around 3-8 (fall planting).

• Plant these in fall at around 6-8" deep and space each bulb by 4-6".

• Mature size depends on variety but typically stays between 12-20" tall.

• You can usually find an Daffodils in yellow, orange, pink, white or a mixture.

• Bloom time is usually early-mid spring.

• Prefers to be in full sun or partial sun.

• Perfect for cut flower arrangements.

Hyacinth

• Hardiness zone around 4-8 (fall planting).

• Plant these in fall at around 4-6" deep and space each bulb by 6-8".

• Mature size depends on variety but typically stays between 8-14" tall.

• You can usually find an Hyacinth in pink, purple, blue, yellow, white or a mixture.

• Bloom time is usually mid spring.

• Prefers to be in full sun or partial sun.

• Perfect for cut flower arrangements and they are fragrant. Depending on the variety, they can also be great for pollinator gardens.

Muscari

• Sometimes all referred to as Hyacinth. The flowers are much smaller though.

• Hardiness zone around 3-8 (fall planting).

• Plant these in fall at around 2-3" deep and space each bulb by 2-4".

• Mature size depends on variety but typically stays smaller between 4-8" tall.

• You can usually find an Muscari in pink, purple, blue, white or a mixture.

• Bloom time is usually mid spring.

• Most can an tolerate all sun requirements.

• Perfect for cut flower arrangements.

Fritillaria

• Hardiness zone around 4-8 (fall pla+nting).

• Plant these in fall at around 6-8" deep and space each bulb by 10-12".

• Mature size depends on variety.

• Most Fritillaria are between purple, pink, yellow, orange, white or a mixtture..

• Bloom time is usually mid spring.

• Prefers to be in full sun or partial sun.

• The bell varieties are perfect for pollinator gardens and cut flower arrangements.

Allium

• Hardiness zone around 4-8 (fall planting).

• Plant these in fall at around 4-6" deep. Space between each bulb depends on variety.

• Mature size and bloom color depends on variety.

  • Most allium are between purple, blue, pink and white.

• Bloom time is usually late spring.

• Prefers to be in full sun or partial sun.

• Perfect for pollinator gardens and cut flower arrangements.

Iris- Dutch, Bearded, Sweet

• Hardiness zone around 3-9 (fall planting).

• Plant in fall at

  • Depth and spacing depends on variety.

• Mature size and bloom color depends on variety.

  • You can find an Iris in almost any color plus some have variegated foliage!

• Bloom time is usually early-late spring.

• Prefers to be in full sun or partial sun.

• Perfect for pollinator gardens and cut flower arrangements.

Lilies- Asiatic, Tiger, Martagon, Foxtail, Oriental

• Hardiness zone around 3-9 (fall planting).

• Plant these in fall at around 6-8" deep. Space between each bulb depends on variety.

• Mature size and bloom color depends on variety.

  • You can find an Lilies in almost any color and they are usually large growers with big flowers!

• Bloom time is usually late spring- mid summer.

• Prefers to be in full sun, some can tolerate partial sun.

• Perfect for cut flower arrangements.

Other Tips

Fertilizer

From working with many people, most don't feel the need to fertilize their bulbs and I tend to agree. In my experience, I've had bulbs pop back up each year with no help from me. If you are worried about the growth of your bulbs, I would recommend Espoma's Organic Bulb- Tone fertilizer.

The only thing I do to help my bulbs is keep the foliage present after blooming. This can help restore the energy for the following year.

Flower Bulb Companies

• Holland Bulb Farms

• Burpee

• Eden Brothers

• Breck's

• American Meadows

Instagram Q&A

I always ask followers if they had any specific questions, opinions or hot-takes I can address in this podcast and blog. Here are the questions and answers for this topic:

"I love daffodils but I have only had one actually bloom in 6 seasons! I only get leaves."

• This could be a factor of a few things...

  • It could be too warm to produce blooms

  • There could be a lack of sunlight

  • It could be too much moisture

• I would recommend covering the ground with a thick layer or mulch or something to stabilize the ground during winter. I would also recommend trying a fertilizer (I personally like  Espoma's Organic Bulb- Tone fertilizer).

"Best spring blooming bulbs for Midwest weather?"

• Depends where you are in the Midwest but in my experience, Crocus, Daffodils, Iris, and Muscari tend to be the most consistent.

IN THE COMMENTS, TELL ME YOUR FAVORITE SPRING BLOOMING BULB!

WANT TO LISTEN?

Go to Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Audible, and more! Search for Houseplant Homebody to hear this episode and MANY more! You can also listen directly on my website under the Podcast page!

DON'T FORGET TO FOLLOW!

Stay connected on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok, & Pinterest @houseplanthomebodyllc.

SAVE, COMMENT, LIKE, FOLLOW, SUBSCRIBE, and SHARE.

All your engagement on my podcasts, blogs, and social media posts help other plant lovers find me too!

Always written with extreme plant passion!

Love, Holly (Owner & Creator of Houseplant Homebody LLC)

How's it going with my plants?

It is survival of the fittest in my household right now. As many of you know, my personal like has been hectic and taken more of a priority lately (getting married, buying a house, my sister having her third baby, soaking in time with my husband, friends and family, etc) so I've lost lots of plants but I've also had some great success with many plants that only need medium to lower maintenance. My collection is still pretty solid and I am happy with where my plants are at right now!

What have been established as my favorite plants and why?

Philodendron, Monstera, and Hoya are my go to's because they are usually pretty low maintenance and there is an endless amount of varieties to collect and research. As a side note, I am also loving Rhaphidophora and it feels similar to Monstera and Philodendron for care. My favorite plants right now are Crimson Queen Hoya, Hoya obovata, my huge Monstera deliciosa, Monstera dubia, Philodendron tortum, Philodendron Pink Princess, Philodendron Ring of Fire and Philodendron White Knight. Not only do I love the way they look, they are all pretty low maintenance and, generally speaking, doing pretty well!

What do I dislike and why?

Elephant Ear AKA Alocasia is something I think looks amazing but not realistic for me to take care of. The amount of care and effort I need to put in to them is too much for me to handle. When I do try minimally, I end up with spider mite issues.

Calathea is also one of those plant I don't own anymore because of it's needs and I always end up with spider mites. I do think they are beautiful though!

My really hot-take is that succulents are moving towards a trend that is almost over with. Personally, I would rather collect other plants than succulents but I know they have a place in a houseplant collector's home in some scenarios!

What are the successes over the last couple years?

• Monstera dubia- grew much faster than I thought and easily rooted to a wood plank on its own

• Burro's Tail cuttings- on a whim, I stuck a few leaves on the top of the soil and they started to root. Now there are several stems on the plant with some reaching 6-8"

• Goldfish Plant- at the time of doing this podcast/blog I hadn't been successful but I bought a new one about 6 months ago. Right now (March), it is rapidly producing new flowers! Placing it in higher light and near my humidifier is definitely helping!

• Hoya Sunrise cutting- the cutting were gifted to me and I propagated it by layering. Now it has a bunch of leaves producing off the end of a couple stems and it is very healthy!

• Pink Princess Philodendron- this was a little slow to grow when I first got it but it has consistently produced several new leaves in the last year

• Rhaphidophora decursiva- is growing vigorously growing up a mole pole

• Orchids- I have large beautiful leaves and very healthy roots forming. I am hoping I will get a stem with flowers this year (finger's crossed!)

• Avocado- the roots and actual stem is growing consistently new leaves all in water propagation

What are the fails over the last couple years?

• Monstera adonsanii Wide Form- tried to grow this on a moss pole but all the leaves dropped off. The roots and stem are still healthy so I will try Keiki Cloning Paste to see if that helps fill in the bare stem

• Snow Bush- I bought this and about 5 days later, I fried it because I forgot to water it.

• Snake Plant- I believe I killed my Snake Plant at work by over watering

• Peperomia Hope- I underwatered this and it lost most of it's leaves. I tried to repot it but at some point it got ripped out of it's pot.

• ZZ Plant- I haven't lost this plant but I lost many of the bottom leaves. I believe this was due to a lack of light and lack of water.

What's on my wishlist?

• Monstera esqueleto,

• Monstera "Aurea"

• Monstera 'Thai Constellation'

• Hoya callistophylla

• Hoya rotundiflora

• Hoya latifolia

• Philodendron gloriosum

• Philodendron melanochrysum

• Philodendron Strawberry Shake

• Philodendron Florida Beauty

Products I've stuck with

There are some way that are better than others but it is personal preference and sometimes dependent on the plant. The key to successful propagation is higher moisture with any of these options below

• FoxFarm Potting Mix (Happy Frog or Ocean Forest)

• Perlite - I don't usually care what brand this is

• Sphagnum Peat Moss - I don't usually care what brand this is

• Bark - I don't usually care what brand this is

• Fox Farm Grow Big Liquid Fertilizer

• Fox Farm Big Bloom Liquid Fertilizer

• Bonide Systemic Houseplant Insect Control

• Bonide Neem Oil

• Compact Shears- Dramm is my go- to brand

• Humidifier- Honeywell is the brand that I've used

• Panel Grow Lights- PERFECT for my plant shelves!

• Mini Mason Jars- the best vessels for propagation

Instagram Q&A

I always ask followers if they had any specific questions, opinions or hot-takes I can address in this podcast and blog. Here are the questions and answers for this topic:

"What is your first houseplant ever?"

• I believe it was a mix of Cacti and Succulents but my first foliar houseplant was a Jade Pothos that I still have.

"How many do you have? What's your limit? How many is too many to care for (in your opinion)?"

• I currently have 151 houseplants! This also includes the few houseplants on my desk at work and the plants that are kept in my basement that will be moving outdoors during the summertime. I think around 150-170 (ish) plants is about my limit because it doesn't take up too much time to water and maintenance doesn't take too long either. I've grown into a plant personal that would rather have more meaningful plants than a plant parent with 100's of houseplants.

IN THE COMMENTS, TELL ME HOW YOU PREFER TO PROPAGATE!

WANT TO LISTEN?

Go to Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Audible, and more! Search for Houseplant Homebody to hear this episode and MANY more! You can also listen directly on my website under the Podcast page!

DON'T FORGET TO FOLLOW!

Stay connected on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok, & Pinterest @houseplanthomebodyllc.

SAVE, COMMENT, LIKE, FOLLOW, SUBSCRIBE, and SHARE.

All your engagement on my podcasts, blogs, and social media posts help other plant lovers find me too!

Always written with extreme plant passion!

Love, Holly (Owner & Creator of Houseplant Homebody LLC)

*NOTE* Some product links are commissionable affiliate links. Thank you for purchasing through the linked products!*

What does propagation mean?

Oxford Languages defines it as "the breeding of specimens of a plant or animal by natural processes from the parent stock."

What medium can you propagate in?

There are some way that are better than others but it is personal preference and sometimes dependent on the plant. The key to successful propagation is higher moisture with any of these options below

• Your usual potting mix

  • I use FoxFarm Potting Mix (Happy Frog or Ocean Forest) and add Perlite

• Sphagnum Peat Moss

• Leca AKA Lightweight Expanded Clay Aggregate

  • There are regular clay colored leca and colorful leca!

• Perlite: granular mineral that increases aeration and drainage.

• Bark or Coco Husk/Chips: helps with aeration while absorbing then releasing moisture when needed.

• Water

Using a coco coir or soil based potting mix would hold more moisture then perlite or bark. But if you have the capability to water more frequently, elements like perlite or bark would help prevent root rot.

What are the different ways to propagate?

These options are mostly dependent on on the type of plant you are attempting to propagate but can sometimes be personal preference.

• Stem Cuttings- cut just below a leaf node to promote root growth

  • Commonly used for Philodendron, Pothos, Monstera,

• Leaf Cuttings- usually you are either cutting where the leaf meets the stem or in some cases, you would cut the actual leaf.

  • Commonly used for ZZ Plant, Snake Plant, African Violet

• Division- by taking a sharp knife, you can cut a portion of the plant off or cut the plant in half to start a new plant

• Layering- this is done by burying a leaf node in soil

• Air Layering- you can attach a ball of potting mix or any other medium around a leaf node on a mature stem and root the plant without removing the stem

Extra tools that could help you propagate?

There are always other options for you to choose from but if you are interested in diving into even more, here are some tools that could help!

• Compact Shears

• Humidifier

• Panel Grow Lights

• Bonide Rooting Powder

• Air Layering Bulbs

• Mini Mason Jars

• Mini Tabletop Greenhouse

• Glass Dome

• 3 Tier Wall Hanging Propagation Station

• 3 Bulb Vase Propagation Station

• Decorative Mushroom Propagation

Instagram Q&A

I always ask followers if they had any specific questions, opinions or hot-takes I can address in this podcast and blog. Here are the questions and answers for this topic:

"What is the best device to propagate in? And why?"

• This is honestly personal preference and dependent on the plant. My favorite way to propagate is with water in clear jars because I love to see the evolution of growth.

"Water propagation is hit or miss! I find soil prop works better."

• That is wonderful! So happy you found a way that works best for you! Since I am a chronic under waterer, I have a hard time keeping my soil moisture high enough to root cutting properly. But for some plants, the soil works better for me as well.

IN THE COMMENTS, TELL ME HOW YOU PREFER TO PROPAGATE!

WANT TO LISTEN?

Go to Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Audible, and more! Search for Houseplant Homebody to hear this episode and MANY more! You can also listen directly on my website under the Podcast page!

DON'T FORGET TO FOLLOW!

Stay connected on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok, & Pinterest @houseplanthomebodyllc.

SAVE, COMMENT, LIKE, FOLLOW, SUBSCRIBE, and SHARE.

All your engagement on my podcasts, blogs, and social media posts help other plant lovers find me too!

Always written with extreme plant passion!

Love, Holly (Owner & Creator of Houseplant Homebody LLC)

*NOTE* Some product links are commissionable affiliate links. Thank you for purchasing through the linked products!*

Botanical Name: Lilium longiflorum

History:

• Originally native to southern islands of Japan.

• The lily was introduced to England by a plant explorer Carl Peter Thunberg 1819

• In the early 1800s the Easter Lily was brought to the United States by Louis Houghton

• Because of Pearl Harbor, the Japanese source of this bulb was cut off and they quickly became known as "White Gold" to growers attempting to get their hands on them.

• Now, what is known as the Easter Lily Capital of the World, is the coastal region between California and Oregon where about 95% of the Easter Lilies grow.

• Across many religions and beliefs, a white lily is supposed to symbolize purity, rebirth and new beginnings.

  • The pure white lily has also been associated with the Virgin Mary

  • It's also been said that when Eve left the Garden of Eden and shed remorseful tears, lilies sprung up.

There are TWO ways to view this plant :

1. Plant for holiday decoration only

2. Plant for holiday decoration that turns into a landscape plant

We are going to go into conditions for both of these options just in case!

Wait, I can plant my Easter Lily outside?!

Yes you might be able to! If you are within hardiness zone 5-11, you can plant these bulb plants outside once the final frost has passed. UW Madison Horticulture Extension did mention this lily is hardy "into zone 4 with protection; a few cultivars are hardy only to zone 7".

Once the flowers are spent, you can cut the stem about halfway. Plant the bulbs around 3" deep and if you are planting multiple bulbs, put them about 12-18" apart. After planting outdoors, the stem and leaves may start to turn brown. This is normal and new growth will more than likely follow it.

Instagram Q&A

I always ask followers if they had any specific questions, opinions or hot-takes I can address in this podcast and blog. Here are the questions and answers for this topic:

"Do they bloom around Easter?"

• Yes! The flowers are forced to bloom around Easter. Seeing as how Easter day changes each year, this can be difficult for growers and requires a great knowledge of the plant! Normally, outdoors, this lily will bloom in the summertime once you have it planted in your garden.

Quick Tips & Facts

• One way to keep the blooms on the plant looking their best is to remove the pollen out of the inside of the lily (anthers). That would mean removing the yellow, powdery tips of the plant. I would avoid doing this for your outdoor lilies.

• The pollen CAN stain your clothing and it easily attaches to your clothing. So be careful when handling the plants and removing the pollen from the flowers.

• Outdoors, these plants can grow upwards of 3ft tall.

• These are toxic to pets and humans. Check out Podcast Ep#31 for more info or the corresponding blog post!

Sun Requirements

As a holiday decoration, before this plant blooms, you want to keep it in bright light. Once it starts blooming, you can move this plant anywhere in your home. I would avoid direct sunlight since this could shorten the bloom time.

If you plan to plant your lily outside once all the flowers are spent, it prefers full to partial sun. Some sources have said they prefer morning sun and afternoon shade but others have said they bloom more prolifically in full sun. Knowing what we do about other lily varieties, these will thrive in either sun condition but I would place them in full sun to try to give them the best chance for maximized flower production!

If you need help understanding more about light, check out Light Explained.

Water Requirement

As always, this depends on your home, environment, humidity, pottery, soil and sunlight. The length of time between waterings will change based on all those factors but Easter Lilies prefer medium moisture. If you need help understanding more about watering, check out Watering Explained.

NOTE: If you plant comes in a decorative foil around the base of the plant, remove this foil. This will help prevent overwatering your lily.

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WANT TO LISTEN?

Go to Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Audible, and more! Search for Houseplant Homebody to hear this episode and MANY more! You can also listen directly on my website under the Podcast page!

DON'T FORGET TO FOLLOW!

Stay connected on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok, & Pinterest @houseplanthomebodyllc.

SAVE, COMMENT, LIKE, FOLLOW, SUBSCRIBE, and SHARE.

All your engagement on my podcasts, blogs, and social media posts help other plant lovers find me too!

Always written with extreme plant passion!

Love, Holly

REMEMBER: The podcast episode may go into more detail so make sure you listen too!

What does "potting mix" or "potting soil" mean?

There is only one big difference which is the presence of soil versus lack of soil. Most people will use these terms interchangeably and the same amendments like peat moss, vermiculite or bark, for example, can be found in both.

• Potting Soil: This is usually best for outdoor use and gardening since is more dense and heavy. As is, depending on the company and product, it may not be optimal for most houseplants unless other amendments are added. Because it contains soil, there are more nutrients to feed your plants.

• Potting Mix: This is a mixture of medium ingredients that does NOT include soil. You may ask, well what does it contain? This is made of whatever ingredients are chosen but commonly seen ingredients could be peat moss, coco coir, perlite, vermiculite or bark. This is usually better for houseplants since it is created to be a lighter weight, more aerated mixture. Since it doesn't contain soil, nutrients will need to be added and you may need to replace or refresh the mixture more often.

All the ingredients:

• Soil: SSSA defines this as "mixture of minerals, dead and living organisms (organic materials), air, and water."

• Compost: this is decaying organic matter usually used for soil amendment and plant fertilizer

• Sphagnum Peat Moss: light weight moss that can still retain moisture.

  • Peat is known to have some negative environmental impacts but there are ways to do it more sustainably. I've included articles at the bottom of the page that offer insight to this topic if you are interested!

  • Peat Moss: decayed version of sphagnum peat moss, looks closer to a soil texture, is also a light weight ingredient that can retain moisture.

• Coco Coir: Usually used as an alternative to peat moss since it is also a light weight ingredient that helps to retain moisture.

• Leca AKA Lightweight Expanded Clay Aggregate: these are baked clay balls that expand when you soak them in water. Many people use this as an alternative growing and propagating medium.

  • There are regular clay colored leca and colorful leca!

• Perlite: granular mineral that increases aeration and drainage.

• Vermiculite: increases drainage while retaining moisture and nutrients

• Bark or Coco Husk/Chips: helps with aeration while absorbing then releasing moisture when needed.

• Sand: usually used to help with aeration in heavier soil.

• Charcoal: this can provide drainage, can trap soil odors, remove acids from your mix, and has antibacterial properties.

• Pumice: porous lava rock that helps with aeration and drainage

What do soil recommendations mean?

• Well draining: Usually a standard potting soil or mix that allows water to flow. Adding perlite, bark or any amendment to increase drainage helps.

• Chunky, coarse: Usually doesn't contain soil and has large ingredients like bark, sphagnum peat moss, leca, perlite, coco coir or coco husks

• Moisture retaining: Usually can contain soil with a mixture of coco coir or peat moss to increate aeration but still hold moisture

What are some potting mix companies?

Obviously there are the large, well known companies like Scott's Miracle Gro and Sun-Gro Black Gold, Home Depot's Vigoro which mostly specialize in the potting soil and gardening products but do carry some houseplant specific products.

Here is a list companies you can find almost anywhere that typically are more conscious of their ingredients, customers, and impact:

• FoxFarm Soil & Fertilizer Company: I personally love this brand and have continued to use their soil and fertilizers for years. This company was born in the 1980's in California with a "desire to offer a different kind of garden soil that was not sterilized in any way". They do specialize is gardening soil and nutrients but their products do work well for houseplants as well. Their customer service is amazing, I've reached with question and received answers quickly so if you have specific questions they will help you!

  • Happy Frog Potting Soil, Ocean Forest Potting Soil

• Sol Soils: This recently founded, Minneapolis based company, has a line of potting mixes, soil amendments and even soil toppers. Their peat-free potting mixes are extra chunky so this is a great company to use if you want a chunky soil but don't want to buy all the individual ingredients. They also plant a tree for every bag sold to support Eden Reforestation projects.

  • Houseplant Chunky Mix, Cactus Gritty Mix, Succulent Gritty Mix

• Rosy Soil: I have been seeing this company more and more and their products are catered to houseplant parents which is perfect. They are only do peat-free mixtures.

  • Houseplant Mix, Cactus & Succulent Mix

• Espoma: This is a company that is catered towards landscape plants but they do carry bags of specialized potting mix and ingredients you may need to mix!

  • Potting Mix, Cactus Mix, Charcoal, Perlite

• Good Dirt: I've also seen this company sold at small business and they have landscape and indoor planting options. They have a potting mix and other nutrients but they've create one unique product called "Dirt In A Box". This is a sustainable way to bring you potting mix that didn't get packaged in plastic.

What do I use for my medium?

This depends on the plant but here the breakdown of what I usually do:

• Most houseplants (Pothos, Monstera, Philodendron, Hoya, etc): I use FoxFarm Potting Mix (Happy Frog or Ocean Forest) and add Perlite

• Mostly Ferns or higher moisture plants: I only use FoxFarm Potting Mix (Happy Frog or Ocean Forest) with no other amendments

• Orchids: I use about a 50/30/20 mixture of FoxFarm Potting Mix (Happy Frog or Ocean Forest), Bark, and Perlite

• Cacti or Succulents: I do about 60/40 mixture of FoxFarm Potting Mix (Happy Frog or Ocean Forest) and Perlite

There isn't one answer though! I invite you to try new things as you figure out what works for you and your budget! I didn't want to make the mixture too complicated for myself so I was willing to purchase a higher quality soil and only a few amendments to alter the mixture as plants needed different specifications.

Instagram Q&A

I always ask followers if they had any specific questions, opinions or hot-takes I can address in this podcast and blog. Here are the questions and answers for this topic:

"What is the best medium to propagate in?"

• I don't think there is a right answer here and I plan to do a propagation episode in the near future! I personally think water propagation has worked well for me but I know many people that have successfully propagated in perlite, perlite soil mixture, sphagnum peat moss, coco coir, and leca. I promise, more to come on this topic!

"What is the difference between pon and leca? Is one easier to use than the other?"

• Pon is made basically smaller sizes gravel and Leca is balled up baked clay. I don't think either are easier than they other but here are some tid-bits that can help you determine what you would rather use:

  • Pon is usually more expensive than Leca.

  • Pon retains moisture more than Leca.

  • Pon is much heavier than Leca.

  • Both reduce potential for some pests like fungal gnats and mealy bugs

  • You usually need to remove 100% soil when using Leca but don't need to be that picky when transferring to Pon.

  • Usually you need to prep Leca but rinsing and soaking it before use.

"Do you use DIY soil?"

• Yes but mine is VERY basic. I use a combination or FoxFarm Potting Mix (Happy Frog or Ocean Forest), bark, and perlite as needed depending on the plant. See section "What do I use for my medium?" above for more details!

"Have you found a good way to store your media? I mixed some together and it molded."

• I dump my bag of soil in a plastic storage container and, if it fits, I put my bag of perlite and bark in the same bin on top. I've needed to cut holes in it for aeration because it has molded in the past. I also keep in a dry environment to help reduce mold.

"Dirt. Dirt is my hot take "

• This is hilarious and I am going to turn this funny comment into a fun fact! Did you know soil and dirt are different? Soil is alive with organisms and organic matter while dirt does not support any life. The more ya know!

IN THE COMMENTS, TELL ME WHAT TYPE OF MIXTURES, BRANDS, OR INGREDIENTS YOU LOVE!

WANT TO LISTEN?

Go to Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Audible, and more! Search for Houseplant Homebody to hear this episode and MANY more! You can also listen directly on my website under the Podcast page!

DON'T FORGET TO FOLLOW!

Stay connected on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok, & Pinterest @houseplanthomebodyllc.

SAVE, COMMENT, LIKE, FOLLOW, SUBSCRIBE, and SHARE.

All your engagement on my podcasts, blogs, and social media posts help other plant lovers find me too!

Always written with extreme plant passion!

Love, Holly (Owner & Creator of Houseplant Homebody LLC)

Peat Moss Articles:

• Architectural Digest: What Is Peat Moss? And Why You Should Skip It

• Good Dirt: The Truth About Peat — Is It Sustainable?

• Grower Talks: Is Peat Sustainable?

• Farmer's Almanac: 7 Peat Moss Alternatives That Are Better For The Planet

• Oregon State University: Harvesting peat moss contributes to climate change, Oregon State scientist says

• Joe Gardener: 238-Peat Moss: Examining the Challenges of Its Ongoing Use in the Face of Climate Change

*NOTE* Some product links are commissionable affiliate links. Thank you for purchasing through the linked products!*

I'm sure when some of you saw this title to the podcast/blog you thought, "wait...we need to prep for fall or winter?!" The answer to that really depends on the situation, but it would be beneficial in most environments. In order to best help, I am going to break this blog up into three parts:

1. Bringing plants indoors after being outdoors all summer long.

2. What to do with plants that are indoors (and will remain indoors).

3. Things to think about when purchasing houseplants in fall/winter.

Now, I understand many of you are in warm climates where this doesn't apply as much, but many of the same practices can be used no matter where you are. Since I am in Wisconsin, and winters are very cold, there has to be a transition every season.

Bringing Plants Indoors

There are a few things you need to consider including temperature, lighting, humidity, and pests.

• Temperature: most houseplants need to be brought inside before the temperature drops below 60˚F. You also want to avoid drafty windows indoors and keep the plants away from any vents.

• Lighting: this is probably the most important thing to consider since lighting outside changes by season, no matter what the environment is. Consider the plant you are bringing inside and where you would prefer to put it. You may (or may not) need to put it a window, or provide supplemental light. If you want more information on grow lights, you can check out podcast episode 63, or the corresponding blog post.

  • I have 3 different examples to share! My Canna Lilies are outdoors in summer and I move them to my basement in winter. Those plants don't need to be in sunlight (nor do they need to really be watered) in winter since they go mostly dormant. I also have a Pencil Cactus and several Asparagus Ferns outside right now that I plan to bring indoors every winter season. Since those don't go dormant, I will put all the plants in my basement. However, I will provide a grow light to supplement the lack of light.

• Humidity: This is important for houseplants that tend to benefit from increased humidity. As least in Wisconsin, summers are pretty humid so it naturally gives the houseplant the humidity it needs outside. But in winter, when you bring it in intside, you need to provide a similar increase in humidity

  • I have a great example of how this should be used! If I had my Bird of Paradise outside during the summer, I would bring it indoors, under grow lights near my humidifier. Since the humidity requirements are higher for plants like that and the winters are dry, the humidifier would help balance its environment.

• Pests: You never know what you are bringing inside when your plants have been outside all season long! My recommendation would be to hose down your plants, then spray each one with an Insecticidal Soap or Neem Oil mixture. This will help to get rid of anything that was on the plant. If you wanted to be sure you got all the buggers off, you could repeat this a few times before you have to bring it indoors. I would also recommend using a preventative insect control on the plants! I use Bonide's Systemic House Plant Insect Control

What to do with Indoor Houseplants

There are a couple of environmental changes that will naturally happen, such as a decrease in light and a drop in humidity. Most houseplants have a slowed growth period in the fall and winter months. I've noticed this typically starts around the end of October through the end of February.

What can you do to make sure your houseplants thrive through fall/winter?

• Provide grow lights to the plants that need bright indirect sunlight (or direct sunlight).

• Provide a humidifier for the plants that are used to the increased humidity (or know that they may suffer with little to no humidity).

• Cut back on watering! Since plants aren't as active in winter, they don't use as much energy; and therefore, won't be using as much moisture.

• Cut back on fertilizing! I usually only fertilize two times in winter which helps give them nutrients, but not stress out the plant. Since I normally stop fertilizing at the end of October (and I start back up at the end of February), I will fertilize once at the beginning of December or January only.

• Make sure they are not in front of a vent, drafty window, or door so the plants aren't hit with sudden changes in temperature that could harm them.

• For plants that like to go dormant (example: Canna Lilies, Oxalis, etc), you don't need to keep watering or place them in bright light. You can simply place them in a cool, dark environment and start watering again late February/early March.

Buying houseplants in fall/winter

With the drop in temperature, it's important to protect your plants when transporting them from one environment to another. Keep these in mind when getting your plant fix in winter:

• Wrap up your houseplants when carrying them to your car! Most houseplant shops have a way to protect your plant as you are carrying them to your car. If some plants are exposed to the bitter cold, even for that short amount of time, it can cause damage.

• Don't leave any houseplant in your car! If you leave any houseplant in your car, even while you are out shopping, it could be exposed to the cold and cause major damage (and potentially kill your plant). Make sure your houseplant stop is your last one before going home to prevent issues! If you plan to houseplant "shop hop" (like I love to), make sure your visits to each shop are short, and you have blankets in your car. You can wrap up your houseplants in these blankets to help a little bit before you can get back in your car and turn up the heat. I've even had some of the cold/hot grocery cooler bags in my car, and placed my houseplants in those, to help prevent them from getting too cold.

• I know some of you like to leave your plants outside to isolate them before bringing it amongst the other plants. Since you can't do this in seasonally cold winter locations, I would recommend putting them in the shower to rinse them off, and spraying them down with an Insecticidal Soap or a Neem Oil mix. You could also use the Systemic House Plant Insect Control to prevent any pests.

Extra resources

Here are other blog posts and podcasts that could help even further:

• Light Explained: Podcast Ep#72 & Blog Post

• Grow Lights: Podcast Ep#63 & Blog Post

• Pests and Plants: Podcast Ep#33 & Blog Post

Here are the links to all the holiday plant podcasts and blogs:

• Fall Annuals: Podcast Ep#15 & Blog Post

• Holiday Cactus: Podcast Ep#21 & Blog Post

• Poinsettia: Podcast Ep#22 & Blog Post

• Norfolk Pine: Podcast Ep#48 & Blog Post

• Amaryllis: Podcast Ep#49 & Blog Post

WANT TO LISTEN?

Go to Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Stitcher, Google Podcasts, and more! Search for Houseplant Homebody to hear this episode and MANY more! You can also listen directly on my website under the Podcast page!

DON'T FORGET TO FOLLOW!

Stay connected on Instagram, Facebook, and Pinterest @houseplanthomebodyllc.

SAVE, COMMENT, LIKE, FOLLOW, SUBSCRIBE, and SHARE.

All your engagement on my podcasts, blogs, and social media posts help other plant lovers find me too!

Always written with extreme plant passion!

Love, Holly (Owner & Creator of Houseplant Homebody LLC)

What are the different types of moisture levels?

• Low Moisture: These plants' soil can be completely dried out in-between watering (or close to it). They can usually bounce back quicker if underwatered, but will struggle the most if overwatered.

  • Example: Cacti, Snake Plant, ZZ Plant.

• Medium Moisture: You want the plant to be mostly dried out in-between watering, but not completely dry. Allowing it to be completely dry could cause harm to the foliage or flowers.

  • Example: Syngonium, Ficus, Philodendron, Hoya.

• High Moisture: The plant needs to be moist consistently. If these plants aren't given that higher moisture, there also may be great consequences (including your plants dying).

  • Example: Maidenhair Fern, Peace Lily, Boston Fern, Pitcher Plant, Nerve Plant

Factors to consider when watering:

• Medium: Do you have a well-draining soil that has a mixture of perlite, pumice sand, or bark in it? Do you have a soil that is moisture retaining, that excludes any additives? Are you using a different medium besides soil like moss or bark?

• Container or Pottery: Are you using a material that absorbs moisture like terra cotta? Do you have pottery that is glazed on the inside and outside of the pot? Are you using plastic pottery? Do you have your plastic pot in a cache pot? This could determine if the plant's soil is holding the moisture or if the pottery is taking away some moisture.

• Lighting: Is your plant near a hot window? Or is it away from the window? This can alter how fast the water is being evaporate, drying out the plant faster or not.

How do I know when to water?

• Moisture Meter Reader: This isn't a permeant tool you should be using constantly. This is a tool to help you understand the watering pattern needed for your plants.

• Your finger or wood rod: When you stick you finger in the soil, you will either feel dry crumbling soil or damp cool soil. If its damp, cool soil that means it still has moisture, while crumbling soil means it has completely dried out. You can do the same thing with a small wood rod if you don't want to get your fingers dirty!

• Lift the pot: This is actually a trick I learned from the garden center! This is how I figure out if hanging baskets needed to be watered again! After you water your plants, pick up the pot or move the pot and see how heavy it feels. This way you know what it feels like completely saturated. When the plant needs water it should feel much lighter and easier to move. This could take some practice, but pretty quickly you will be able to see the difference!

Instagram Q&A

I asked followers if they had any specific plant questions I could address in this podcast and blog. Here are the questions and answers for Watering:

"Does water temp affect plant growth? Hot versus cold? Does the type of water you use affect or stunt growth? For example, well water, city water, filtered water, etc.?"

• You really only want to water your houseplant in lukewarm, room temperature, or cool water. Giving them extremely hot or cold water is not healthy for the plant and its root system. That being said, most garden centers water houseplants directly from the hose, which is typically pretty cold water.

• Tap water and well water are typically fine for watering your houseplants. Sometimes there is a concern of higher chlorine levels in tap water added to drinking water that could eventually cause browning tips on plants (over extended periods of time). To help prevent this, you can leave your water sit out 24 hours to allow the chlorine to evaporate before watering your plants. Softened water is actually more dangerous to your plants since it is adding salt to your water. In this case, you want to use a water spigot that does not go through the softener (or use rainwater).

• The temperature, and any harsh chemicals, could stunt growth but if you are concerned you can get your water tested through your local university extension.

"Can you give tips/hints for winter watering and season changing watering? I tend to lose a plant or two during the winter and often in the transition between seasons even though I am fairly attentive and on top of the watering routines."

• This is very dependent on your environment, where you live, and the the plant. BUT, at least in Wisconsin, I've noticed a drop in growth usually in October which means I am letting up on watering and fertilizer around that time frame. I would suggest getting a moisture meter reader or using a chop stick, dowel, or small stake to see how much moisture your plant still has.

• It is unclear if you are losing your plant from over or underwatering your plants during this transition. Either way, I would suggest checking your soil moisture starting in October so you understand how often your plant wants moisture into the winter. Every plant will be different and their environment (being under grow lights, in a window, in a bathroom or kitchen, low lighting, etc.) could also change the frequency.

WANT TO LISTEN?

Go to Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Stitcher, Google Podcasts, and more! Search for Houseplant Homebody to hear this episode and MANY more! You can also listen directly on my website under the Podcast page!

DON'T FORGET TO FOLLOW!

Stay connected on Instagram, Facebook, and Pinterest @houseplanthomebodyllc.

SAVE, COMMENT, LIKE, FOLLOW, SUBSCRIBE, and SHARE.

All your engagement on my podcasts, blogs, and social media posts help other plant lovers find me too!

Always written with extreme plant passion!

Love, Holly (Owner & Creator of Houseplant Homebody LLC)

Photo Credit: University of Iowa

Botanical Name: Nematanthus gregarius

Common Names: Goldfish Plant, Guppie Flower, Candy Corn Plant

Sun Requirements:

In order to get this plant to bloom consistently, you will need to put it in (at least) medium light, but preferably bright, indirect light.

If you need any guidance to understanding light, or are in need of a grow light to help increase your light, check out the links!

Water Requirement

Keeping this plant consistently moist is also important to maintain healthy flowers. You don't want them completely drying out, or you will lose flowers and foliage color with change. That being said, don't allow your Goldfish plant to sit in water, and try not to overwater it.

Extra humidity is not necessary, but increasing humidity only helps the plants overall health.

Fertilizer

As I always say, there are LOTS of ways to fertilize plants. I currently use Fox Farm's Grow Big Liquid Fertilizer and I fertilize about every 2 weeks when I water my plants, starting around the end of February through October. I only fertilize once or twice in winter because the plant isn't as active!

For this plant, since it is known for its blooms, I would actually use Fox Farm's Big Bloom Liquid Fertilizer to help push out flowers. This means a fertilizer with higher phosphorous. If you are looking at the 3 numbers that areassociated with fertilizers, (example: 10:10:10) then you want the middle number to be the highest.

The Complete Houseplant Survival Manual: "From spring through summer, feed every 2 weeks with a high phosphorous plant food mixed at half the recommended rate. In winter, feed monthly."

There are MANY ways to fertilize and it is completely up to you! There are tons of products out there you can try but an overall rule of thumb for houseplants is that it is best to under-fertilize, rather than over-fertilize. Always use the recommended amount, or less, when applying your fertilizer to houseplants.

Propagation

Goldfish Plants can easily be propagated by taking stem cuttings and placing them in water, soil, or whatever medium you prefer. I usually start my stem cuttings in water and have had great success with many other plants. For this plant, make sure you are taking a cutting from a nonflowering stem and, remember, it could take at least a year to start blooming from that stem cutting.

Other Facts

• All part of the Gesneriaceae.

• This is the vining cousin of the African Violet.

• Native to parts of Central and South America.

• If this plant is given correct care, it should bloom year-round! You can expect less flowers in winter, no matter what.

• Natively these grow epiphytically (and love to vine), but you see them mostly sold as a trailing houseplant.

• They are NOT toxic to pets. If you are interested in learning about more pet friendly plants, check out Podcast Ep#31 for more info or the corresponding blog post!

Instagram Q&A

I asked followers if they had any specific plant questions I could address in this podcast and blog. Here are the questions and answers for the Goldfish Plant:

"Once I brought mine home, it stopped blooming. What happened?"

• Sometimes the shock of bringing a houseplant home from a bright, humid greenhouse causes issues initially. As long as you are providing the light and water it needs, the plant should bounce back and eventually product blooms again. If you brought it home in fall, this also makes sense because the blooms are less common in winter.

WANT TO LISTEN?

Go to Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Stitcher, Google Podcasts, and more! Search for Houseplant Homebody to hear this episode and MANY more! You can also listen directly on my website under the Podcast page!

DON'T FORGET TO FOLLOW!

Stay connected on Instagram, Facebook, and Pinterest @houseplanthomebodyllc.

SAVE, COMMENT, LIKE, FOLLOW, SUBSCRIBE, and SHARE.

All your engagement on my podcasts, blogs, and social media posts help other plant lovers find me too!

Always written with extreme plant passion!

Love, Holly (Owner & Creator of Houseplant Homebody LLC)

WI Plant Shops

The Bruce Company of Wisconsin

Instagram- Facebook

• Location: Middleton, WI

• Price: $$

• Plants: Sells lots of common houseplants and some unique plants as well. Typically they sell smaller sizes from (about 6" pots and under) but they do have a few larger plants.

• Notes: A perfect place for your landscape plants, lawn decoration or furniture, landscape tools, and maintenance needs.

Plant Land

Instagram- Facebook

• Location: Milwaukee, WI

• Price: $

• Plants: They have a few houseplants, but this is the perfect local place to shop for your annuals, herbs, and vegetables in spring! You can also find some perennials and shrubs to pick from.

• Notes: They are a seasonal business usually opening in March and closing in July. They post their updates on Facebook, so make sure to check for hours and updates there!

Olbrich Botanical Garden

Instagram- Facebook

• Location: Madison, WI

• This location is known for the gorgeous 16 acres of outdoor gardens and their beautiful tropical greenhouse called Bolz Conservatory.

• Visit their outdoor garden, which contains the Royal Thai Pavilion and Garden, Perennial Garden, Sunken Garden, and Herb Garden.

• In the Bolz Conservatory, you will find a diverse collection of tropical plants, a rushing waterfall, free-flying birds, and blooming orchids. Get an up close and personal look at carnivorous plants as well!

• And don't forget to check their ongoing events year round!

Mitchell Park Domes

Instagram- Facebook

• Location: Milwaukee, WI

• The Domes are the perfect place in Milwaukee to get away and experience tropical environments all year round. You can be taken to an oasis in the tropical and desert dome while being whisked off to a different world every year and season in the floral dome.

• Don't forget to check out events they have year round and the fun temporary exhibits to check out in the floral dome!

IL Plant Shops:

Vedas Plant Shop

Instagram - Facebook

• Location: Services Central Illinois to Chicago

• Price: $/$$

• The owner, Jeff, has been incredibly supportive

• If you are looking for a specific plant, he may be able to get it for you, so don't hesitate to reach out here!

• Besides the amazing plant selection, he also does landscape design, plant-sitting, plant rehab/plant consultations, plant rental, and interiorscaping.

Chicago Botanic Garden

Instagram - Facebook

• Location: Glencoe, IL

• Price depends on time of year. Parking is expensive.

• This is one of the best outdoor gardens I've been to. You can spend a whole day (and more) exploring the 385 acres of landscape gardens including the Bulb Garden, Circle Garden, Crescent, Enabling Garden, English Walled Garden, Evening Island, Fruit and Vegetable Garden, Heritage Garden, Japanese Garden, Native Plant Garden, Rose Garden, Sensory Garden, and more.

• You can also find the Tropical Greenhouse, Bonsai Collection, Semitropical Greenhouse, Topiary Greenhouse and Desert Greenhouse!

• Chicago Botanic also has a ton of education opportunities and events to check out! I can't recommend going there enough!

Garfield Park Conservatory

Instagram - Facebook

• Location: Chicago, IL

• Price: FREE to enter but need to book reservations online.

• Now this place is my FAVORITE conservatory/greenhouse to go to! The have an amazing plant assortment in different greenhouse sections including the Palm House, Fern Room, Desert House, Aroid House and more!

• Also make sure you check out their extensive events and programs in the conservatory as well!

Images from Garfield Park Conservatory:

#houseplantlovers #houseplantshopping #rarehouseplants #commonhouseplants #milwaukee #chicago #wisconsin #illinois #shopsmall #shoplocal #crazyplantlady #urbanjungle #funfacts #podcast #houseplantblog #houseplantpodcast #houseplanthomebody #blog #houseplantcommunity

WANT TO LISTEN?

Go to Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Stitcher, Google Podcasts, and more! Search for Houseplant Homebody to hear this episode and MANY more! You can also listen directly on my website under the Podcast page!

DON'T FORGET TO FOLLOW!

Stay connected on Instagram, Facebook, and Pinterest @houseplanthomebodyllc.

SAVE, COMMENT, LIKE, FOLLOW, SUBSCRIBE, and SHARE.

All your engagement on my podcasts, blogs, and social media posts help other plant lovers find me too!

Always written with extreme plant passion!

Love, Holly

We wanted to share some some fun photos of us over the last 10 years! Photos of Sierra's plant space are down a bit further in the questions!

Who is Sierra Jones?

• My (Holly's) best friend

• She currently lives in Chicago, but I have been trying to convince her to move to the Milwaukee area for years now (because I miss her).

• She is an Occupational Therapist in Pediatrics.

• She has a dog named Atticus (follow him on @atticusthedramatticus- you can also see him on the Pets and Plants blog post!)

• She loves to read!

• She also loves Lego sets.

• And obviously "houseplanting"

How do we know each other?

• We met each other in the spring semester of our freshman year of college (Carthage College) in our Drawing 1 class. We both looked at each other thinking we wanted to be friends but, since we are both antisocial, we didn't say anything!

• We ended up having to go to Chicago for our art class and we bonded on that field trip. We clicked better then the other people on that trip and (Sierra says) "now I am stuck with her and I can't get rid of her."

When and how was she introduced to plants?

• Growing up, Sierra's Mom had houseplants in their home consistently. Not a ton but they were always there. Her Mom had a job when she was younger where she went into other business and took care of the plants for them too!

• Sierra didn't remember when she starting getting plants but she said "obviously it's your fault."

• She didn't remember her first plant but Holly thinks it was a Ponytail Palm she bought at IKEA several years ago. "And then I don't know what happened. It's like tattoos, they are addictive! Now I've got a million plants!"

What does she love/hate about plants?

• Sierra loves the aesthetic of them which brings a very relaxing vibe. Since most of the plants are concentrated in the living room everyone says it looks like a jungle but its really peaceful and a nice place to hang out.

• She doesn't love taking care of some of them. She has moments where she sits down and takes care of them. But she also has phases where she thinks "I can barely take care of myself and you guys seem a little more finicky then me right now, so I can't do this."

• She also spent a decent amount on a plant when I was with her and she is really stressed about killing that plant (or any kind of plant) that is super expensive.

• She doesn't like how watering instructions are so unclear.

• She dislikes the amount of times you have to go back and forth to fill up the watering can.

• And she determined that I need to make a watering tool to help her and everyone with this problem.

Favorite plant/least favorite plant?

• Her favorite plants are currently her Pothos plants because they are so easy to keep alive. She also loves the Scindapsus plants she has!

• Her least favorite plants (but also one of her favorites) is her ferns (potentially Cotton Candy Fern)! She has a beautiful fern in a fun face pot that looks like hair. But they are so hard to keep alive and it always looks partially dead.

• Her favorite plant she lost was the Black Velvet Alocasia that I got for her years ago (which technically isn't lost). She put the bulbs in water and it keep forming a new leaf every once in awhile.

Wishlist plant?

• She loves the gothic looking (or black) houseplant varieties. She wants the Alocasia Dragon Scale, the Scindapsus Tricolor Dark Form (we are unsure if this is a real plant), maybe Scindapsus Treubii, and (of course) a Variegated Monstera.

• She has avoided making a list because she knows they will be more expensive. She is also afraid she is going to kill it immediately!

Favorite plant product or hack?

• A plant product she uses a lot is the sticky yellow fungal gnat traps.

• She also uses Neem Oil for pests as well.

• Her sister uses the watering bulbs in the plants that are higher up (where she can't reach).

• She also uses a few grow lights that are helpful.

What is underrated and overrated in the plant world?

• She said "plants!" for both under and overrated! She said everyone has gotten into plants and COVID escalated the amount of people with plants.

• They are underrated because there are actually true health benefits of plants!

• She said people might say Pothos are overrated, but she thinks they are underrated.

If she could change anything about her plant situation, what would she do and why?

• She wishes she had a greenhouse attached to her house, or way more window space and ledges (to get more plants, obviously).

• She wishes her bedroom was a space she could put more plants in.

• She wishes plants can water themselves and take care of themselves.

Instagram Q&A

I asked followers if they had any specific plant questions I could address in this podcast and blog. Here are the questions and answers for Sierra's Plant Chit-Chat:

"How many plants does she have? Does she have more because of your friendship?"

• She said "I have plants because of you". She doesn't have a current count but she believes she has around 45 (just of her plants), but with her sister's plants, the count is probably over 100.

"What is your relationship with plants and WHY?"

• She does feel like her relationship is a little wishy-washy sometimes. This is because the effort needed isn't given to the plants...because life is overwhelming! At the same time, she is very happy to have the aesthetic and enjoys the way her plants make her feel.

"What plant have you each had the best luck/experience with and why?"

• Sierra says, "I've had some really good luck with my ZZ plants! Literally no idea why. They just seem to thrive and grow really well and I've never seen one brown or anything like that."

• Holly says, "ZZ Plants have always thrived for me too, but Monstera, Philodendron and Hoya have been incredibly easy for me! Since I am a chronic underwater-er these can still survive my occasional neglect and look amazing! They aren't too picky with lighting which makes them versatile PLUS I rarely have pest issues on any of them!"

WANT TO LISTEN?

Go to Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Stitcher, Google Podcasts, and more! Search for Houseplant Homebody to hear this episode and MANY more! You can also listen directly on my website under the Podcast page!

DON'T FORGET TO FOLLOW!

Stay connected on Instagram, Facebook, and Pinterest @houseplanthomebodyllc.

SAVE, COMMENT, LIKE, FOLLOW, SUBSCRIBE, and SHARE.

All your engagement on my podcasts, blogs, and social media posts help other plant lovers find me too!

Always written with extreme plant passion!

Love, Holly (Owner & Creator of Houseplant Homebody LLC)

Description

When you search "Pitcher Plant" online or in books, two different botanical names will come up; Nepenthes and Sarracenia. Nepenthes is known as the Tropical Pitcher Plant, while Sarracenia is the American Pitcher Plant. You may also hear Monkey Plant as another common name used for either plant, or Trumpet Pitcher for Sarracenia. Typically, you will be growing Nepenthes in your home.

Both plants have bright green leaves and pitchers hanging (or growing) up out of the plant. Usually the pitchers are reddish/pink, with green, and depending on the cultivar, the colors and patterns could be different.

Sarracenia blooms in early spring usually with somewhat larger, beautiful green and pink flowers. Nepenthes' form spikes with small yellow, green, or red flowers on it. You can see an example of the flower spike in one of the images above!

Sun Requirements

Both thrive in bright indirect light but some sources differ in opinion when it comes to placing Nepenthes in more light.

Nepenthes can tolerate a few hours of direct sun and the pitchers can benefit from the direct sun. Keep in mind, direct sun outside is much more harsh than a south window inside your home.

If you need any guidance to understanding light, or are in need of a grow light to help increase your light indoors, check out the links!

Water Requirements

Watering guidelines were also very inconsistent when doing research, but most of the reliable resources listed "high moisture" needed for both. Many say you can grow Sarracenia in water since they are natively from bog environments.

Nepenthes need medium to high moisture, so consistent watering is needed. You don't want your Nepenthes to completely dry out.

High humidity will allow these plants to thrive and grow to their fullest potential. Misting the pitchers and leaves can prove of great benefit, along with placing it near a humidifier.

Fertilizer

Pitcher Plants do not need fertilizer since they are usually getting their nutrients from the insects they consume. They are very sensitive to fertilizers so the websites that offer fertilizer as a recommendation warn to dilute the mixture more than normal but this still isn't recommended. You do not want to over fertilize them. Some websites suggested if you are not seeing insects around the pitchers you can purchase dried crickets and feed the pitchers a small portion of the cricket. The plant has adapted to attract prey on its own, so I believe giving it the correct conditions is MOST important. Then if you are really having issues, you can consider fertilizer options I listed above.

Practical Houseplant Book (about Sarracenia): "Do not use a fertilizer on this plant; stand it outside or on a windowsill in summer, which will provide it with plenty of insect prey."

For almost all other plants (in case you are curious), I currently use Fox Farm's Grow Big Liquid Fertilizer and I normally fertilize every 2 weeks when I water most of my plants, starting around the end of February through October. I only fertilize once or twice in winter because the plant isn't as active!

Propagation

According to Plantopedia you can propagate by seed or by stem cutting. Stem cuttings would be much easier and that is what I would recommend doing! You want to keep these cutting in a very humid environment and it should start forming roots within about a month. Pitchers may start forming in about six months if the conditions are right.

Other Facts

• Nepenthes is a part of the Nepenthaceae family and Sarracenia is a part of Sarraceniaceae.

• Nepenthes are native to tropical regions in Southeast Asia and Australia. Sarracenia can be found throughout North America natively, including southern Canada to southern Texas, depending on the cultivar.

• Nepenthes natively grows in temperatures ranging 45°F-80°F. Sarracenia natively grow in temperatures ranging 23°F-77°F.

• According to the San Diego Zoo, "of 104 Nepenthes on the IUCN (International Union for Conservation of Nature) Red List, 63 are listed as Vulnerable or Endangered, with 9 of those Critically Endangered." For Sarracenia the zoo states "One species and two subspecies of American pitcher plants are on the US Endangered Species List, and at least one other has been assessed is vulnerable."

• They are NOT toxic to pets. If you are interested in learning about more pet friendly plants, check out Podcast Ep#31 for more info or the corresponding blog post!

Instagram Q&A

I asked followers if they had any specific plant questions I could address in this podcast and blog. Here are the questions and answers for the Pitcher Plant:

"Does it have to go dormant like a Venus fly trap? If so what's the best way to do that? Does it require peat? Or can some other medium be used? I have seen the shift (especially in the UK) to peat free things and I wonder how that will effect plants requiring it in maintaining health. How do you feed it if you don't have a lot of bugs inside?"

• The Sarracenia DOES need 3-5 months of winter dormancy which requires a drop in light, temperature and moisture. This makes sense since this is called the American Pitcher Plant and can be found natively throughout North America and southern Canada. The Nepenthes does NOT need winter dormancy. This is the pitcher plant you will normally see sold in garden centers or houseplant shops since they are considered a tropical plant.

• I plan to review soil and mediums in the next season so I will address the peat shift question then! These plants do not require peat for planting but if you wanted an alternative to peat, you could use coco coir. This is known to be the more sustainable option but we can go into more detail on this when I go over "Mediums Explained" next season!

  • Practical Houseplant Book: "Grow in...carnivorous potting mix or a 3:1:1 mix of silica sand, sphagnum moss, and perlite (never use potting mix).

  • The healing power of plants: "For the best results they should be planted in a 50/50 mix of sphagnum moss and course sand."

• For feeding your Pitcher Plant, fertilizer would not be my recommendation. Most resources said this plant is very sensitive and it could be fatal if fertilized. Pitcher Plants have adapted to attract its own prey, so the plant may be getting more prey then you think it is! Keeping the environment consistent with light, humidity and moisture is most important. In several online sources (including New York Botanical Garden), it suggests feeding the pitchers dried crickets to supplement the nutrients it would normally get outside.

WANT TO LISTEN?

Go to Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Stitcher, Google Podcasts, and more! Search for Houseplant Homebody to hear this episode and MANY more! You can also listen directly on my website under the Podcast page!

DON'T FORGET TO FOLLOW!

Stay connected on Instagram, Facebook, and Pinterest @houseplanthomebodyllc.

SAVE, COMMENT, LIKE, FOLLOW, SUBSCRIBE, and SHARE.

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Always written with extreme plant passion!

Love, Holly (Owner & Creator of Houseplant Homebody LLC)

Botanical Name: Platycerium bifurcatum

The Staghorn Fern has green/blue almost chalky feeling fronds ("leaves") with a unique shield-like structured frond protecting the base of the plant.

The structured, rounded base fronds start as a light green color and eventually turn to a tan, crunchy like texture (totally normal). The green, frosty, antler-like fronds growing out from the base fronds may eventually grow clusters of brown spores on the underside of the tips of fertile fern fronds.

Sun Requirements:

Staghorn Ferns are one of the few ferns that prefer to be in bright indirect light but they can also grow well in medium light. Avoid direct sunlight as this could cause burning.

If you need any guidance to understanding light, or are in need of a grow light to help increase your light, check out the links!

Water Requirement

Watering for these ferns depends on the form you have this plant in. Many people mount their Staghorn Fern since it is known for the epiphytic ways. If your fern is mounted, you will more than likely need to take the full mount down and run it under your shower or sink for watering. When finished watering make sure there is not standing water within the fronds because this can cause rot.

If you have a younger fern planted in soil, it only needs low to medium moisture and can survive through spouts of drought. If you do have it planted in soil, make sure it is housed in very well-draining soil and don't allow it to sit in water.

This plant does need high humidity to thrive since moisture is takin in through its fronds. I would recommend placing near a humidifier or misting frequently to keep the moisture high.

Fertilizer

As I always say, there are LOTS of ways to fertilize plants. Unless you are extremely over-fertilizing your plant, there isn't necessarily a wrong way to do this. I currently use Fox Farm's Grow Big Liquid Fertilizer and I normally fertilize every 2 weeks when I water my plants, starting around the end of February through October. I honestly probably only fertilize once or twice in winter because the plant isn't as active! I use about 1/2 to 3/4 the recommended amount of fertilizer because I would rather under-fertilize than over-fertilize my plants. For the mount ferns, the fertilizer may be a bit more difficult so I would suggest having a diluted fertilizer in a saucer (or bowl) and place your fern directly in it to soak in the diluted water/fertilizer mixture. Staghorn Ferns can be sensitive to fertilizer so it is safer to use less than the recommended.

Practical Houseplant Book: "From spring to early fall, apply a balanced liquid fertilizer monthly."

There are MANY ways to fertilize and it is completely up to you! There are tons of products out there you can try but an overall rule of thumb for houseplants is that it is best to under-fertilize, rather than over-fertilize. Always use the recommended amount, or less, when applying your fertilizer to houseplants.

Propagation

The Staghorn Fern creates many pups of the main parent plant that can be pulled off and created into new plants. You can also create a new plant with spore germination but that can be a bit more involved. I don't advise this as the first option for propagation.

Other Facts

• All part of the Polypodiaceae family.

• Native to parts of Australia, Java, & New Guinea.

  • The fern is considered invasive on the Hawaiian Islands, so be cautious with this plant as a houseplant.

• Staghorn Ferns can grow in environments with temperatures of 40 degrees F and above

• Natively these can grow upwards of 3-4ft wide growing epiphytically

• This fern was given the Royal Horticulture Society’s Award of Garden Merit in 1993.

• They are NOT toxic to pets. If you are interested in learning about more pet friendly plants, check out Podcast Ep#31 for more info or the corresponding blog post!

Instagram Q&A

I asked followers if they had any specific plant questions I could address in this podcast and blog. Here are the questions and answers for the Staghorn Fern:

"Why the name Staghorn??"

• The fronds resemble the antlers of a male deer or elk!

"Wanting to mount mine to the wall but how am I supposed to water it?"

• To water a mounted Staghorn Fern you will need to be able to access them and take them off the wall to properly water them. You can shower them or soak them for a bit but you won't be able to property water them while on your wall without making a mess.

"How to mount/different ways to mount? And how big do they get/can they outgrow?"

• There are SO many different ways to hang or mount a Staghorn Fern. The two most common ways would be using wire to attach it to a piece of wood or creating a moss ball (called kokedama) for it to hang in. Staghorn Ferns are slow grows so it will be many years before it would out grow the board or vessel you plant it in/on.

WANT TO LISTEN?

Go to Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Stitcher, Google Podcasts, and more! Search for Houseplant Homebody to hear this episode and MANY more! You can also listen directly on my website under the Podcast page!

DON'T FORGET TO FOLLOW!

Stay connected on Instagram, Facebook, and Pinterest @houseplanthomebodyllc.

SAVE, COMMENT, LIKE, FOLLOW, SUBSCRIBE, and SHARE.

All your engagement on my podcasts, blogs, and social media posts help other plant lovers find me too!

Always written with extreme plant passion!

Love, Holly (Owner & Creator of Houseplant Homebody LLC)

Sources: Many of my plant books introduced this plant (LINK: scroll down to the bottom to find some books recommendations) plus University of Wisconsin Madison- Horticulture was a great source!

Botanical Name: Sedum morganianum

Common Name: Burro's Tail, Donkey's Tail, Horse's Tail, Lamb's Tail

There is also a variety called "Burrito" that is said to have smaller leaves and shorter stems than the original Burro's Tail. Some sources also say the Burrito is technically called Burro's Tail,(while the original Burro's Tail should be called Donkey's Tail) but I am not finding that call-out by reliable sources. The reliable sources (books, university websites, etc) do acknowledge the variety "Burrito," itself but it is unknown if this is a cultivar, hybrid or a different species.

The jelly bean shaped leaves are greenish blue and hang down in long, thick strands. For a brand new growing plant, the stems start growing upright then quickly start drooping over the pot and hanging downward. The leaves start a bit smaller and rounded, but as the plant matures the leaves become longer and slightly more pointy. If they continue to be smaller and rounder as the plant matures it could be the variety "Burrito".

Sun Requirements:

The Burro's Tail thrives until bright, direct light but can also be in bright, indirect light. If you aren't able to provide this much light for your plant, you may have slower, leggy growth.

If you need any guidance to understanding light, or are in need of a grow light to help increase your light, check out the links provided!

Water Requirement

The Burro's Tail is a type of succulent that does not need a lot of water to thrive. Keep these plants under a low water regimen and it will continue to live a healthy life. Root rot is a common issue with Burro's Tail but giving it low moisture will help prevent this issue. If you aren't quite sure if you are providing too little (or too much water), I would highly recommend trying a Moisture Meter Reader. It is a great tool to measure the moisture until you understand the watering cadence needed for your conditions.

This plant does not need any extra humidity and can thrive in your standard household environment.

Fertilizer

As I always say, there are LOTS of ways to fertilize plants. Unless you are extremely over-fertilizing your plant, there isn't necessarily a wrong way to do this. I currently use Fox Farm's Grow Big Liquid Fertilizer and I normally fertilize every 2 weeks when I water my plants, starting around the end of February through October. I honestly probably only fertilize once or twice in winter because the plant isn't as active! I use about 1/2 to 3/4 the recommended amount of fertilizer because I would rather under-fertilize than over-fertilize my plants.

Complete Houseplant Survival Manual: "From spring to late summer, feed monthly with an all-purpose balanced houseplant food. In fall and winter, do not feed."

There are MANY ways to fertilize and it is completely up to you! There are tons of products out there you can try but an overall rule of thumb for houseplants is that it is best to under-fertilize, rather than over-fertilize. Always use the recommended amount, or less, when applying your fertilizer to houseplants.

Propagation

Propagation is actually quite easy for Burro's Tail! You can pull off the individual leaves and grow a brand new plant from the leaf. I claim that this is quite easy because I have been able to do it myself! I actually took a few leaves from a plant that dropped off and placed them at the top of a pot with well draining soil. I watered about once a week and put it under a bright grow light. After about a year, longer stems started to form, creating a new plant!

I believe increased watering attention would have sped up the growing process, but even with the conditions provided, I successfully grew a new Burro's Tail!

Other Facts

• All part of the Crassulaceae family.

• Native to parts of Mexico and South America

• The length of the stems depend on your environment, but they can become almost infinitely long. Throughout different sources I've seen it listed between 1-4 ft long and that is within the lengths I've seen at different greenhouses and plant shops.

• The Burro's Tail can flower if in the right conditions (and potentially) in your home as well. Usually the flowers are a small cluster of pink/red flowers on the end of the stems.

• The Burro's Tail was given the Royal Horticultural Society’s Award of Garden Merit in 1993.

• Mealy bugs are the most common pest you may run into so keep an eye on your plant or you use preventative products to deter these pests from infesting. Check out Pests and Plants to learn how to treat that and for ways to prevent pests!

• They are NOT toxic to pets. If you are interested in learning about more pet friendly plants, check out Podcast Ep#31 for more info or the corresponding blog post!

Instagram Q&A

I asked followers if they had any specific plant questions I could address in this podcast and blog. Here are the questions and answers for the Burro's Tail...

"How to keep them from getting leggy"

• This can be prevented by lots of light and very little movement. This plant drops leaves VERY easily so once you get this plant, try not to move it. If you have to, be very delicate. Providing bright, direct light will also minimize the space between each leaf that forms. If you plant is getting very leggy, you could cut back the plant a little bit to rejuvenate the growth as well. Any leaves you cut off, place those at the top of your soil and watch new stems grow too!

"Do they need humidity? Can they thrive in normal household humidity?"

• No they do not! Since this is a succulent, they thrive in a dry, arid environment. Usually household humidity is just fine for any Burro's Tail.

"Best medium for propagating?"

• I used a well draining soil which was a regular potting mix, combined with perlite. I know some plant experts recommend using different mediums for propagation but for succulents, a well draining soil is all you need!

"How to keep from bumping it & knocking all the leaves off! LOL But seriously, best soil/light requirements. I love these but have killed 2!"

• I know this is so difficult and can be frustrating! There isn't a good way to prevent it besides trying to keep the plant's movement to a minimum and try not to reposition the plant as little as possible.

• Best soil is a well-draining soil! I know that can be very vague, but I firmly believe you don't need anything special. I just use a Fox Farm potting soil mixed with additional perlite to make it even more well draining. Fox Farm is not necessary but I would make sure you see if your soil has fertilizer already within the mixture and make a mental note. I would avoid that if you could. If you don't want to mix soil, you could use a a cacti or succulent soil which already has more drainage properties.

• The more light, the better! If you can provide direct sunlight, that is great but they will also do well in bright, indirect light.

WANT TO LISTEN?

Go to Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Stitcher, Google Podcasts, and more! Search for Houseplant Homebody to hear this episode and MANY more! You can also listen directly on my website under the Podcast page!

DON'T FORGET TO FOLLOW!

Stay connected on Instagram, Facebook, and Pinterest @houseplanthomebodyllc.

SAVE, COMMENT, LIKE, FOLLOW, SUBSCRIBE, and SHARE.

All your engagement on my podcasts, blogs, and social media posts help other plant lovers find me too!

Always written with extreme plant passion!

Love, Holly (Owner & Creator of Houseplant Homebody LLC)

Why hang your houseplants?

• Lack of square footage for houseplants

• Trying to avoid a pet or child getting to them

• Esthetically pleasing in a certain area

• Needing a particular light that works better by hanging it

• A fun plant accessory you found for hanging plants

• Or you just want to!

How is this blog broken down?

• Ways to hang plants if you ARE able to drill into your ceiling or wall

• Ways to hang plants if you ARE NOT able to drill into your ceiling or wall

• All the random and fun plant hanging accessories

• Plants that would love to be part of your hanging plant collection

Hanging plants WITH the ability to drill a hole or damage your walls or ceilings

Whether you are hanging on the ceiling, or on the wall, make sure you are choosing an accessory and mounting equipment that can hold the plant's weight when it is fully watered (plus more). Also makes sure you are drilling into a wall stud or ceiling joint.

Hooks from the ceiling: This is probably the most common way to hang plants, but it is not the easiest, or least invasive, to your property. Here are some options:

• White swag hooks- holds up to 35lbs

• White plate hook- holds up to 35lbs

• Black screw hooks- holds up to 40lbs

• White screw hooks- holds up to 40lbs

• Black rubber coated utility hooks- holds up to 60lbs

• Stainless steel hooks- holds up to 60lbs

• Metal Monstera hooks- holds up to 100lbs

Wall mounted brackets: If you don't want to drill into the ceiling, this could be a great alternative! You could also drill these brackets into your wall, or any free-standing piece of furniture you have.

• Adjustable black wall hook- holds up to 10lbs

• Adjustable extended hook- holds up to 11lbs

• Wood wall hooks- holds up to 15lbs

• Wood wall hooks- holds up to 15lbs

• Black iron wall hooks- holds up to 16lbs

• Metal plant hooks- holds up to 22lbs

• Black wood hooks- holds up to 22lbs

• Black iron hooks- holds up to 30lbs

• Black iron wall hooks- holds up to 33lbs

• Wood plant hooks- holds up to 35lbs

• 
  

Tension rod or shower rod: This is a great way to get multiple plants hanging in one spot. There are a ton of shapes and options under this category.

• Adjustable decorative rod- holds up to 20lbs

• Half oval stainless steel curtain rod

• Stainless steel oval shower curtain rod

• D shaped shower curtain rod

• Corner shower curtain rod

• Neo-angle shower curtain rod

• Black curtain rod- holds up to 33lbs

• Black curved curtain rod

• Black curved rectangular pipe clothes rack- holds up to 135lbs

• Floating black metal rod

• Wrap around curtain rods- 2pk

Hanging plants WITHOUT the ability to drill a hole or damage your walls or ceilings:

Hooks from the ceiling: There are many different types of adhesive hooks you can use. Make sure you are checking on the weight limit and consider how heavy the plant will be when fully watered. If you have popcorn ceilings, and not smooth ceilings, this may not be a great option for you.

• Stainless steel adhesive hooks- holds 10lbs

• Transparent hooks- holds up to 13lbs

• White hooks- attaches to a drop ceiling, holds 15lbs

Mounted brackets: I mentioned this above as well, but if you did not want to damage the wall or ceiling you could drill these types of brackets into a piece of your own free-standing furniture. There are also deck brackets that do not require drilling and can pinch or attach to furniture or anywhere in your home! The wall mounted brackets you can attach to furniture is listed above, but here are some other options:

• Steel hooks- 2pk, holds up to 6.5lbs

• Adjustable deck hook

• Adjustable deck hook- holds up to 20lbs

Suction cup planters:

• Glass round planter suction cups- 4pk

• Suction cup air plant holder

• Suction cup window hanger- holds up to 10lbs

Free floating room dividers: These have been a trendy way to separate a room with plants, while still being able to effectively display your plants. Here are some great options for room dividers:

• 2 tier plant stand with 2 macrame plant hangers

• 2 tier bamboo plant stand

• 3 tier bamboo plant stand

Tension rod or shower rod: This is a great way to get multiple plants hanging in one spot. Plus, there are a ton of shapes and options under this category.

• Black adjustable curtain rod- holds up to 33lbs

• 2 tier clothes rack- holds up to 260lbs

• 6 tier clothing rack pole

• Plant pole stand- with 12 trays

• Plant pole spring tension rod- 3 adjustable arms

• Double shower curtain rod

• Hanging clothes rod

• White adjustable tension rods

• Black adjustable tension rod- holds up to 40lbs

Shepard's hooks: Normally you would use these in your garden outdoors, but there is no reason why you couldn't use them inside too! You could put these in a potted plant you already have or in its own pot. If you are worried about it being top heavy, you could put bricks (or poor some concrete) in the bottom of your container that will hold the shepard's hook. Here are some options:

• 76in adjustable tall shepards hooks- 2pk, holds up to 16lbs

• 92in 2pk 2 sided shepards hooks

• Free standing adjustable hook

Accessories & Extra Tools:

Hanging Planters & Shelves:

• Disco Ball Planter- 6" pink or silver

• Waxed Canvas Hanging Planter- multiple sizes and colors

• 3 Hanging planters

• Macrame plant hanging 3 tier shelf

• 2 tier ceramic hanging planter

• Gold plant hanger- 2pk

• Seagrass plant hanger- 2pk

• Macrame plant hanger- 5pk

• Hanging moon planter

• Water droplet hanging planter- 2pk

• Hanging round plant shelf- 13"

• Hanging metal hoop planter- 6" pot

• Black and gold hanging planter

• Sloth hanging planter

• Leather plant hanger

• White rounded wall planters- 3pk

• Ladder plant stand with 5 metal pots

Hanging Propagation Decor:

• Iron rectangular mounted vases

• Wood mounted propagation station

• 2 tier propagation tubes

• Round glass plant vases- 6pk

• Rectangular glass plant vases- 2pk

Extra Tools or Accessories:

• Black S hooks- non slip

• Black mounted 4" pot holders

• Shower rod angled wall adapter

• Black adhesive shower rod brackets

• Clear adhesive shower rod retainer

• Monkey S hooks

• Retractable plant hook pulley

Best plants for hanging:

The options are endless, but below are links to some great choices. Make sure you are double checking their requirements before choosing your plant.

• Pothos

• Scindapsus

• Philodendron

• Spider Plant

• String of Hearts

• String of Pearls

• Burro's Tail

• Pitcher Plant

• Inch Plant

• English Ivy

• Asparagus Fern

• Boston Fern

• Rabbits Foot Fern

• Staghorn Fern

• Prayer Plant

• Hoya

• Peperomia

• Pilea

• Goldfish Plant

• Syngonium

Instagram Q&A

I asked followers if they had any specific plant questions I could address in this podcast and blog. Here are the questions and answers for this episode...

"What plants are best to hang?"

• There are TONS of options for this but I would consider the weight your hanging spot can handle, what kind of light is provided, and accessibility. I say accessibility because if you aren't able to water easily, I would choose to hang a plant that can handle low moisture.

"What benefits does hanging them have? Better growth?"

• This really depends on the plant you choose. Some plants naturally are trailing plants and they are happy to be that way. There are other plants that can be trailing plants but also be epiphytic where they could climb a moss/coco coir pole. Overall this is personal preference over any major plant benefit.

"Would love if you could talk about places/how to hang (other than in windows!) :)"

• Using some of the tools like tension rods or room dividers would allow you to put your plants anywhere within your room. If lighting is your concern, you could make sure your tension rod is near an outlet so you can provide supplemental light through grow lights.

"How do you hang plants when you rent and can't do holes?"

• So many great ways, so make sure to check out all the links above for ideas and inspiration! I would say tension rods may be the easiest option that could hold a decent amount of weight.

"Best tension rods?? Ways to hang for renters?"

• Since I have not used tension rods myself, I can't say for certain. I've included several options above with different weight limits. I've also included accessories that my be needed to further help make sure your tension rods stay in place.

WANT TO LISTEN?

Go to Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Stitcher, Google Podcasts, and more! Search for Houseplant Homebody to hear this episode and MANY more! You can also listen directly on my website under the Podcast page!

DON'T FORGET TO FOLLOW!

Stay connected on Instagram, Facebook, and Pinterest @houseplanthomebodyllc.

SAVE, COMMENT, LIKE, FOLLOW, SUBSCRIBE, and SHARE.

All your engagement on my podcasts, blogs, and social media posts help other plant lovers find me too!

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Love, Holly (Owner & Creator of Houseplant Homebody LLC)

Botanical Name: Microsorum musifolium

This bumpy leaf fern gets its name from the crocodile-like details on it leaves. Those leaves grow out from the center of the plant as well. As this plant matures, the pattern and texture become more prominent while the edge of the leaves become more rippled.

Sun Requirements:

Medium light is all that is needed for this fern. They could do okay in bright, indirect light, but it is not necessary for this plant to thrive. It is best to avoid direct sunlight otherwise you may see the leaves start to scorch or become pale.

If you need any guidance to understanding light, or are in need of a grow light to help increase your light, check out the links!

Water Requirement

The Crocodile fern needs medium moisture to thrive best. When the top layer of soil is dry, you can water your fern again. I would make sure you are not overwatering the fern or letting it sit in water. Giving this plant drainage and well-draining soil will help prevent excess watering. If you aren't quite sure if you are providing too little or too much water, I would highly recommend trying a Moisture Meter Reader. It is a great tool to measure the moisture until you understand the watering cadence needed for your conditions. If you notice your leaf edges turning brown, this could be due to a lack of moisture, or lack of humidity.

This plant does prefer to be in medium to high humidity to thrive. You can increase your humidity by placing this plant in a mini greenhouse or greenhouse cabinet. You can also place it next to a humidifier, mist, frequently or place it on top of a pebble tray.

Fertilizer

As I always say, there are LOTS of ways to fertilize plants. Unless you are extremely over-fertilizing your plant, there isn't necessarily a wrong way to do this. I currently use Fox Farm's Grow Big Liquid Fertilizer and I normally fertilize every 2 weeks when I water my plants, starting around the end of February through October. I honestly probably only fertilize once or twice in winter because the plant isn't as active! I use about 1/2 to 3/4 the recommended amount of fertilizer because I would rather under-fertilize than over-fertilize my plants.

Practical Houseplant Book: "Apply a half-strength balanced liquid fertilizer once a month from spring to early fall."

There are MANY ways to fertilize and it is completely up to you! There are tons of products out there you can try but an overall rule of thumb for houseplants is that it is best to under-fertilize, rather than over-fertilize. Always use the recommended amount, or less, when applying your fertilizer to houseplants.

Propagation

You can divide the Crocodile Fern when it is mature enough to propagate it. Try to be as gentle as possible when separating the root system in order to prevent damage in the process. Your newly divided plant may need a bit more moisture in order to establish itself, so make sure you are keeping this fern evenly moist during that time.

Other Facts

• All part of the Polypodiaceae family.

• Native to parts of Southeast Asia

• Natively these can grow upwards of 4ft, if not more, in the right conditions.

• As a houseplant, you will rarely see it reach any larger than 2ft and it will take a long time to get that large since it is fairly slow growing.

• They are NOT toxic to pets. If you are interested in learning about more pet friendly plants, check out Podcast Ep#31 for more info or the corresponding blog post!

Instagram Q&A

I asked followers if they had any specific plant questions I could address in this podcast and blog. Here are the questions and answers for the Crocodile Fern..

"What soil is the best? Chunky? Leca? (Hope not!!! LOL)"

• This doesn't need anything too complicated. You can use a normal potting mix and if you would like to add a little perlite or bark for more drainage, you can. It does not need to be chunky and I wouldn't recommend leca (thankfully LOL)!

"Can a crocodile fern be happy with normal household humidity?"

• I want to say yes to this but honestly, they don't thrive in regular household humidity. Giving them some kind of humidity with a small terrarium, mini greenhouse, humidifier, pebble tray underneath the plant or frequent misting will help.

"I like the look of this plant, but I feel like its the type of plant guaranteed to get pests...?"

• I've had my Crocodile Fern in household humidity and I've also placed mine in high humidity. But in both environments, it has not gotten any pests. The number one pest issue that pops up during my research is scale. Check out Pests and Plants to learn how to treat that and for ways to prevent pests!

"Advice for growing this in a terrarium (open not closed terrarium)?"

• Multiple plants in a terrarium will help increase humidity even if it has an open top so I would recommend choosing plants that have a similar moisture and sunlight need. I would recommend misting inside your terrarium to boost humidity as well (once a day). And I would also recommend placing a thin layer of moss on top of the your well draining soil to also help retain the moisture and increase humidity.

WANT TO LISTEN?

Go to Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Stitcher, Google Podcasts, and more! Search for Houseplant Homebody to hear this episode and MANY more! You can also listen directly on my website under the Podcast page!

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Always written with extreme plant passion!

Love, Holly (Owner & Creator of Houseplant Homebody LLC)

Botanical Name: Chamaedorea elegans (sometimes seen as Neanthe bella)

This soft, fluffy palm typically has bright green foliage that can make a statement in your home, or even be the perfect terrarium plant. With their slow growth it can fill a space without taking over like some other palms and houseplants.

Sun Requirements:

Minimal lighting is actually needed for this palm! It can tolerate, and still grow, in low light, but prefers to be placed in medium light. If you place the Parlor Palm in too much sunlight, you may see the leaves start to yellow. I would avoid West or South facing windows if possible for this palm. Because of their light needs, they are actually known for being great office plants!

If you need any guidance to understanding light or are in need of a grow light to help increase your light, check out the links!

Water Requirement

The Parlor Palm doesn't react well to being underwatered, so they prefer to be in medium moisture. That being said, they also don't like to be soaking wet and standing in water so make sure you are giving this plant drainage and well-draining soil. If you aren't quite sure if you are providing too little or too much water, I would highly recommend trying a Moisture Meter Reader. It is a great tool to measure the moisture until you understand the watering cadence needed for your conditions. The reaction your plant has will be browning leaves if it is under watered. Once more moisture is provided, this plant will bounce back and start producing more foliage.

This plant does prefer to be in a bit more humidity so if you are able to, that will improve your plant's health. They can adapt to your home's normal humidity but if you have the capability, increase humidity and/or mist frequently to reduce pests (such as spider mites).

Fertilizer

As I always say, there are LOTS of ways to fertilize plants. Unless you are extremely over-fertilizing your plant, there isn't necessarily a wrong way to do this. I currently use Fox Farm's Grow Big Liquid Fertilizer and I normally fertilize every 2 weeks when I water my plants, starting around the end of February through October. I honestly probably only fertilize once or twice in winter because the plant isn't as active! I use about 1/2 to 3/4 the recommended amount of fertilizer because I would rather under-fertilize than over-fertilize my plants.

The Complete Houseplant Survival Manual: "Needs a little more fertilizer than other palms, especially in summer."

Practical Houseplant Book: "Apply a balanced liquid fertilizer once a month from spring to fall."

There are MANY ways to fertilize and it is completely up to you! There are tons of products out there you can try but an overall rule of thumb for houseplants is that it is best to under-fertilize, rather than over-fertilize. Always use the recommended amount, or less, when applying your fertilizer to houseplants.

Other Facts

• All part of the Arecaceae family.

• Native to parts of Central America and Mexico (Guatemala was names out a couple times).

• Natively these can grow upwards of 5-6ft, if not more, in the right conditions.

• Parlor Palms can bloom after about 3 years of age in nature. Usually you will see small yellow flowers in nature but there is a very minimal chance you will see these flowers on your houseplant (usually never).

• I also want to point out spider mites are very common on this houseplant. The way to prevent that is showering the foliage when watering, misting, increasing humidity, or wiping down the foliage.

• They are NOT toxic to pets (YAY!). If you are interested in learning about more pet friendly plants, check out Podcast Ep#31 for more info or the corresponding blog post!

WANT TO LISTEN?

Go to Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Stitcher, Google Podcasts, and more! Search for Houseplant Homebody to hear this episode and MANY more! You can also listen directly on my website under the Podcast page!

DON'T FORGET TO FOLLOW!

Stay connected on Instagram, Facebook, and Pinterest @houseplanthomebodyllc.

SAVE, COMMENT, LIKE, FOLLOW, SUBSCRIBE, and SHARE.

All your engagement on my podcasts, blogs, and social media posts help other plant lovers find me too!

Always written with extreme plant passion!

Love, Holly (Owner & Creator of Houseplant Homebody LLC)

WI Plant Shops:

MOD GEN - A Modern General Store

• Instagram- Facebook

• Location: Milwaukee, WI (in Third Ward area)

• Price: $$/$$$

• Plants: Sells lots of common plants and many unique plants as well. Typically they sell smaller sizes from about 6" pots and under but do have a few larger plants

• Notes: Also a perfect place for unique gifts and décor. Probably my favorite small shop to go to in Milwaukee!

Clover

Instagram- Facebook

• Location: Milwaukee, WI (Bayview area)

• Price: $/$$

• Plants: Many common houseplants along with a few rare plants. Sometimes they also have some larger plants you don't find often (I.E. Hoya carnosa 'Compacta', String of Pearls, Snake Plant). They call out pet friendly plants with a small paw sticker on their plant pots, and they also have some unique planters already created with houseplants in them.

• Notes: The shop carries coco coir poles and this is where I get ALL of mine! They also have a rewards program and if you purchase one of their cute tote bags and bring it back, you receive a percentage off you purchase!

Stump

• Instagram- Facebook

• Location: Milwaukee, WI (Walker's Point area)

  • There is also several locations around the United States including:

    • 2 shops in Columbus, OH

    • Lancaster, OH

    • Cleveland, OH

    • 3 shops in Philadelphia, PA

    • Devon, PA

    • Savannah, GA.

• Price: $

• Plants: Many common houseplants and a few unique plants with very reasonable prices.

• Notes: The Milwaukee shop has a very cool aesthetic with live edge wood shelves and stone walls. At purchase, they create a plant care card with specific instructions for the plant you are buying.

Kellner Greenhouses

• Instagram- Facebook

• Location: Milwaukee, WI

• Price: $$

• Plants: One of the largest selections of common, unique and rare houseplants in the Milwaukee area. They sell small, medium, large and extra large plants

• Notes: If local plant shopping isn't enough for you the owner's puppies are always on the property excited to greet you! They are open seasonally so make sure you check their website for hours and days open. Here is a virtual tour of their greenhouse too!

Felly's Flowers & Garden Center

• Instagram- Facebook

• Location: The houseplant greenhouse is at their Fitchburg, WI location. They are a great flower shop as well with several locations in the Madison, WI surrounding area.

• Price: $$$

• Plants: They do have many common plants in a range of sizes along with unique and rare plants. Although their pricing is a bit higher than normal, their unique selection is always worth it.

• Notes: The Fitchburg location also sells pottery, tools, flowers and gifts. If you are in the greenhouse, they have a section you are not allowed in but you can see some epic houseplants in there as well- worth a look back there just to soak in their houseplants.

IL Plant Shops:

Plant Shop Chicago & Plant Shop Evanston

Instagram for Chicago- Instagram for Evanston - Facebook Chicago - Facebook Evanston

• Location: Chicago, IL and Evanston, IL

• Price: $$

• Plants: These place sell many houseplants along with some tools and supplies! They also have a decent selection of cacti if you are a cacti savant. From my experience shopping at the Chicago location, usually they sell some common plants but many unique plants and some rare plants.

• Notes: The staff is very friendly and they do live plant auctions on social media! Definitely worth a follow to get updates from them!

Adam & Sons & Daughter's Garden Center

• Instagram

• Location: Chicago, IL (Humboldt Park area)

• Price: $

• Plants: They are known for their extensive houseplant options but they also carry seasonal annuals, perennials, fall plants and pumpkins, Christmas trees around the holidays and more. They sell houseplants in many different sizes and frequently receive rare houseplants.

• Notes: Since they are only on Instagram, that is where to find them!

Chicago Bloom

• Instagram- Facebook

• Location: Chicago, IL

• Price: $$

• Plants: They carry lots of common houseplants in different sizes along with many unique and rare houseplants in a range of sizes as well! In the winter if you are needing some plant therapy, this is the place to be! There is no question about the quality of plants at this shop!

• Notes: This shop is founded by Tu Bloom® who is a well known landscape, garden, floral and interior plant designer. He has partnered and design for large events and names like the Grammy Awards, Michael Jackson's Garden Memorial, Chicago Flower & Garden Show and Museum of Science and Industry Smart Home just to name a few.

Pasquesi Home and Garden

Instagram- Facebook

• Location: Lake Bluff, IL

• Price: $$

• Plants: They carry many common houseplants in a range of sizes with some increased unique varieties in the summer season.

• Notes: I mostly went here for garden center needs and during peak season, their annual and perennial selection is no joke! Not only are the plants amazing but the extent of the tools, outdoor décor, gifts, and pet section is incredible! Yes, you would go there for the plants but you should also go there for all the extra fun things to look at!

Pepper Creek Green House and Gifts

• Instagram Location Search- Facebook

• Location: Rockford, IL

• Price: $

• Plants: Even though this place is known for the floral design, seasonal plants and amazing gifts, the houseplant selection is also amazing! Their common plants always look super healthy ranging in sizes plus they carry unique and even rare houseplants as well!

• Notes: I am originally from Roscoe, IL so I am not sure HOW I missed this place growing up! Every time I go, I leave with at least one houseplant.

Instagram Q&A

I asked followers if they had any specific plant shop questions I could address in this podcast and blog. A couple of these are from WI & IL Plant Shops Pt.1 but since I have new shops to talk about I have some new answers too! Here are the questions and answers:

"Do any of them ship? For those of us who don't live in the area."

• Chicago Bloom and Plant Shop Chicago actually do ship some of their plants through out the United States! Not all of their inventory is online and Plant Shop Chicago is just cacti or supplies on their website.

"If you had to pick 1 place to shop for plants, where would it be?"

• Of the list of shops above, I would say Mod Gen is my favorite place to shop for plants and gifts. It has a good selection of plants and home décor items!

"How did you choose the places chosen this time?"

• These are places I have shopped and have experienced pretty often. Some of these are also small local shops that I take pride in supporting and shopping at!

"What do you look for to make the fave plant store cut?"

• Selection, variety and plant health for the top things I assess.

"Do you ever plan to expand to other locations outside of WI and IL?"

• Absolutely! Since I can't travel everywhere and experience all plant shops I want to extend my future plant shop podcast episodes and blogs to places around the world! Not only do I want plant shops to recommend their own shop, I want the plant lovers to send me all their favorites too.

#houseplantlovers #houseplantshopping #rarehouseplants #commonhouseplants #milwaukee #chicago #wisconsin #illinois #shopsmall #shoplocal #crazyplantlady #urbanjungle #funfacts #podcast #houseplantblog #houseplantpodcast #houseplanthomebody #blog #houseplantcommunity

WANT TO LISTEN?

Go to Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Stitcher, Google Podcasts, and more! Search for Houseplant Homebody to hear this episode and MANY more! You can also listen directly on my website under the Podcast page!

DON'T FORGET TO FOLLOW!

Stay connected on Instagram, Facebook, and Pinterest @houseplanthomebodyllc.

SAVE, COMMENT, LIKE, FOLLOW, SUBSCRIBE, and SHARE.

All your engagement on my podcasts, blogs, and social media posts help other plant lovers find me too!

Always written with extreme plant passion!

Love, Holly

Who wouldn't love to have a low maintenance "palm" in their collection?!

Botanical Name: Beaucarnea recurvata (some call it Nolina 'recurvata' also)

Common Names: Ponytail Palm, Elephant Foot, Bottle Palm

The Ponytail Palm is characteristic in its long green leaves that resemble a ponytail with a bulbous base or caudex. There are different cultivars and varieties out there, including variegated or dwarf sizes, but those are harder to find in plant shops. You will mostly find them labelled "Ponytail Palm" anywhere you look.

Sun Requirements:

The more sunlight you can give this plant, the better! They prefer to be in bright indirect light or even direct light. A south window would be best for that type of light but a west window would be next best. In my experience they can also tolerate medium light as well. For example, the plant picture in this blog is from my friend Sierra. She currently has it off of a bright, indirect window and it has grown a decent amount in the last couple years!

If you need any guidance to understanding light or are in need of a grow light to help increase your light, check out the links!

Water Requirement

Even though this is called a palm, don't let that fool you! The elephant foot-like base is used for water storage so they don't need be watered as often as you may expect. It is best to think of these as succulent-like plants and water less often. All of that means this is a low water plant that should be watered only when the plant is dry. I also reduce watering in winter which is common with almost all houseplants. If you aren't quite sure if you are providing too little or too much water, I would highly recommend trying a Moisture Meter Reader. It is a great tool to measure the moisture until you understand the watering cadence needed for your conditions.

This plant does not like a lot of humidity, so it is okay to keep it in a low to zero humidity environment. This makes sense given this plant is more succulent-like.

Fertilizer

As I always say, there are LOTS of ways to fertilize plants. Unless you are extremely over-fertilizing your plant, there isn't necessarily a wrong way to do this. I currently use Fox Farm's Grow Big Liquid Fertilizer and I normally fertilize every 2 weeks when I water my plants, starting around the end of February through October. I honestly probably only fertilize once or twice in winter because the plant isn't as active! I use about 1/2 to 3/4 the recommended amount of fertilizer because I would rather under-fertilize than over-fertilize my plants.

The Complete Houseplant Survival Manual: "In spring and summer, feed monthly with a balanced houseplant fertilizer. In fall and winter, do not feed."

Practical Houseplant Book: "Apply a half-strength balanced liquid fertilizer once a month in spring and summer."

There are MANY ways to fertilize and it is completely up to you! There are tons of products out there you can try but an overall rule of thumb for houseplants is that it is best to under-fertilize, rather than over-fertilize. Always use the recommended amount, or less, when applying your fertilizer to houseplants.

Other Facts

• All part of the Asparagaceae family

• Native to parts of Mexico and South America.

• Natively these can grow upwards of 15 ft, if not more, in the right conditions.

• The leaves look very smooth but they actually have serrated edges and feel sharp when you touch. The leaf blades can get upwards of 5 ft long and usually are a dark green color.

• The bulbous base of the plant will continue to get wider and taller as the plant matures as well.

• As a houseplant, this will more than likely not bloom. Natively is does have a very showy cream/white/yellow color flower cluster that can reach up to 3 ft tall. It looks similar to some Yucca flowers.

• They are NOT toxic to pets. If you are interested in learning about more pet friendly plants, check out Podcast Ep#31 for more info or the corresponding blog post!

WANT TO LISTEN?

Go to Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Stitcher, Google Podcasts, and more! Search for Houseplant Homebody to hear this episode and MANY more! You can also listen directly on my website under the Podcast page!

DON'T FORGET TO FOLLOW!

Stay connected on Instagram, Facebook, and Pinterest @houseplanthomebodyllc.

SAVE, COMMENT, LIKE, FOLLOW, SUBSCRIBE, and SHARE.

All your engagement on my podcasts, blogs, and social media posts help other plant lovers find me too!

Always written with extreme plant passion!

Love, Holly (Owner & Creator of Houseplant Homebody LLC)